Climbs 9
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 295m a.s.l
Faces all
Dun Leacainn - the main face © Lankyman
Crag features
An impressive nose of rock on the hillside above Loch Fyne with excellent climbing and a pleasant view. The good is good and the crag is quick drying. Dominator Direct (E3) is a superb 3-star route up an obvious groove and Devils Elbow (HVS) is also good.
Note: The abseil point mentioned in the SMC guidebook at the end of p2 of Devil's Elbow is not there. Getting to the top from there is horrible (and the descent is not too pleasant either), so best go prepared to set up your own.
Note: peg abseil station at top of Devil's Elbow replaced 22/05/2021
Approach notes
Park in the village of Furnace (56.155785, -5.181773) then cross the bridge over Leacann Water and walk up a track on the left towards South Craleckan. Just before a gate there is a sign on the right 'To the Crag'. This path crosses a small burn at the start then after a few hundred metres joins a larger forestry track. Go left then look out for another track heading straight up the hill. A good path system now leads up to a point about 100m directly below the crag.
Note: This approach info updated July 2020. The local farmer has requested that people do not drive up the track as the only possible parking space is used for turning.
Access Advice
The local farmer has asked that people do not drive up the track as the only possible parking place is used for turning. Park in the village instead.
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Climbs at this crag
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