Climbs 20
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 12m a.s.l
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Creag a tuath - the north cliff © Maragmhòraix
Crag features
Dunagoil is a basalt ridge, with the archeological hill fort, towering 35m above sea level. Most of the climbing - both bouldering and routes is based on the western part of the hill. To the southeast, the ground slopes away. There are lots of easy problems in the coves near the sea (a mixture of sandstone, conglomerate and graywacke), most juggy mini roofs and overhangs. The basalt cliffs and boulders are covered by lichens and often require a good brush (no metal wire brush please! just plastic, or even better: wooden :-) ) I'm going to list some of the problems I climbed but there's enough for a boulder circuit in the Font 4 to 6b range. More info here: https://pierreboulderingblog.blogspot.com/search/label/Dunagoil
Approach notes
From Rothesay, take the A844 eastward then toward the south. Turn left after the cemetery on a minor road known as 'Plan Road', direction St Blane's Church. Park at the free parking area at the end of the road. Dunagoil Fort is clearly visible to the west.
Access Advice
This is a beautiful site in terms of geology, archeology and history, and access is through farmland so please be extra respectful especially with livestock.Also, I did not notice any birds nesting - the cliffs are probably too low and too accessible. However, there is a lot of wild life around, especially hares and bats. So again, please remember you don't own the place. :-)
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Climbs at this crag
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