Climbs 8
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude Tidal
Faces N

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Aching arms and stuck toes, in the darkness © JamieSparkes

Crag features

6 lines and one closed project. 4 'easy' route <6c+ then the crag steepens the right hand line is a 7b+ and an 8a to the left the project line is rumoured to be about 7c/+. Only really worth going to for the hard routes.

Approach notes

About 500m west of Dunbar Harbour

Bolts on the 4 easier climbs look fine, but the lower-off bolts (or the hangers at least) are very corroded. We top-roped the 3 easiest routes, using quickdraws through the lower-offs but also a back-up with a second rope using the rock-solid fence further up. The bolts held a bunch of top-roping and lowering off by us, but I’m not sure I’d fancy it without a back-up - if you are leading you could just top out I guess, bit of a hassle to get the quickdraws back though.
kennysmith - 13/Jul/22
Have the bolts at the top of the climbs been replaced or have they just been painted to protect from further deterioration? They looked different when we were there this evening. The bolts on the climbs look great but I've always been in two minds as to how safe the ones at the top are - what do others think?
davesa - 09/Aug/14
Just sat at Dunbar Crag now about to go play around on the harder routes, but I'm wondering who the project belongs, if anyone? Also the rock here is gorgeous!! Any reason more routes haven't been bolted/put up? And is the gorgeous red streak of rock 10m east a boulder problem? Because if not, it really should be!!
Ben J - 10/Jul/14
I've been told that some of the bolts are looking pretty loose. This treu? thanks
anomm - 22/Oct/11
I've noticed new bolts at left side of crag & a blank space for 4 or 5 routes to the right. Who is equipping this and is the space up for grabs?
Stevi - 04/Sep/02
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