UKC

Climbs 21
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 316m a.s.l
Faces SW

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General view of the crag from the south-west © drconline

Crag features

This is a small pillared outcrop in the Kilpatrick hills to the north of Clydebank near to Jaw Reservoir. Walk in is approx 45mins uphill all the way.

It is in a pleasant spot above the reservoir and forest and catches the sun, so given the length of the walk-in a nice spring or summer day where you could explore all the options in a single visit would work well. It can, however, be quite windy so bring some extra layers.

Rock type is unknown but has good friction despite the lichen. The top tier is very loose as it slopes up towards the summit of the hill.

There are a number of shorter (4-8m) climbs on the individual columns of rock along the base of the crag that could potentially be linked for some multi-pitch practice. There are some interesting looking off-width cracks.

Some bold highball/boulder problems have been added along with some easier Trad climbs which, while short do give some good challenging practice for anchor building! 

There has not been much (any) traffic on this crag so there is quite a lot of loose rock - helmets are strongly advised!

Approach notes

Park at the Concho Road public car park beside the Concho stones and walk up the footpath North, through the fields and past the Grey Mare's Tail waterfall to the dam. The crag is visible to the north-east from the dam, above the line of the forrest.

From the dam it's an approx 1km walking across country to reach the crag, following a landrover track. Skirt the west end of the reservoir and head north-east to pick up a landrover track along the edge of the forest. The crag should be visible on the south-west side of the hill.

Approach time is approx 45mins.

There is usually livestock so please put your dog on the lead if they are coming too.

Added a couple of easy Trad climbs today and uploaded a Topo image of the whole crag with all current routes marked up. Would be a good location for Trad learning as routes are short but have decent belay anchors. Topping out needs some thought but can be treated as a multi-pitch if needed.
drconline - 20/Mar/21
Spotted this place when I was walking last summer and finally made it back for a look - I didn't realise someone had started a page on ukc and I was surprised to find some chalked holds! I've added some new climbs that I did today but I'm happy for the names and grades to change if someone's done them already. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing - the rock seems really solid and there are a fair number of easy solos/highballs to go at.
Brendan - 19/Mar/21
Finally made it to this crag to have a look. It was snowing so no chance of any climbing but there definitely looked like some interesting (but short) options. Will report back when we've had a proper chance to climb it.
drconline - 31/Dec/20
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Climbs at this crag

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