Altitude 33m a.s.l
Nice day for flow stone. © samparsons
An unusual venue made up of a long low quarried wall that for much of its length is set in a slight trench. There are plenty of routes here and although on initial appearance seem to be very short, are actually mostly of good rock, powerful and not a pushover. Some of the flowstone climbing is well-worth tracking down and the whole crag is extremely sheltered and close to the parking - just don't mistake the short length of the routes as easy pickings!
Park at the Cheyne Weares car park and then walk south (right when looking out to sea) on a path to the edge of the quarry from where the path continues down a short way to the quarry floor and the crag.
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
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