Lots of interesting lines following well protected cracks. Most routes 1 pitch.
Best visited in the afternoon to get the sun.
Must Do Trad : Dracula E3
Near here is also Pinnacle Crag (listed separately in the Database) on the opposite side of the road to the main crag which offers generally easier routes on very clean rock. Normally dries quickly from the wind.
Must do Boulders: The Untrained Ear f7A+ and Eriophorum angustifolium f6B, The Settler f7C, Lost and Found 6A+, Mutprobe 5+
Also see the two editions of Scottish Bouldering. Vimeo is the best source for videos of lines!
Bring a steelwire brush to help maintain these blocs if you have one! The blocs in the wood always need a scrub/brush for pine needles