UKC

Climbs 38
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 14m a.s.l
Faces all

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The traverse from Split Ends © willbatho

Crag features

An underrated venue with beautiful surroundings and impressive rock architecture. The climbing is intimidating for its steepness and the admittedly loose appearance of the rock. It isn't as bad as it looks and fortunately does offer reliable gear placements. There is little here for the sub-HVS climber, but at that grade and above there are some highly memorable climbs. The South Bay is a sun-trap which can be delightful in still winter weather after a run of dry days. The North Bay is more appealing in summer, though it does get morning sunshine.

November 2018 belay information - Sadly most of the stakes placed in 2014 went AWOL - probably coincidental to the strimming of the cliff-tops. Since stakes failed as a solution, a motion at a BMC local meeting was passed to allow MINIMAL bolted anchors WHERE NO OTHER SOLUTIONS were feasible. So far it has only been necessary to place a single bolt (you heard right!) on the grass slopes directly above the finish of Wings of a Dove. This will also be useful for A Drop in the Ocean. Stakes are still in place for Monster Munch (high up slope) and Paper Tiger.

Approach notes

On the outskirts of Brixham fork right at traffic lights and follow signs to Berry Head. Go past the rugby club and park 250m after the housing estate, by a gate in the lane. On the opposite side of the road a footpath leads up to a track. Follow this for 100m to the coast path and walk left along it for 250m to a metal walkers' gate into the holiday camp. Now turn around, retrace your steps for 10m, then take the path leftwards. This contours the slope and curves left down a ridge toward the pinnacle of Durl Rock which is connected to the mainland by a tidal causeway.

Massive rockfall winter 2014/15 has greatly altered the chimney of Pigeon Post. The exit looks exciting.
Kafoozalem - 09/Feb/15
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Climbs at this crag

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