180m, 4 pitches. The first major ice line on the cliff when approaching from the east, near the rock climbs of Flanker's Route and Vanguard. Forms differently each winter to give routes of varying difficulty - at least V, 5 in January 2015 but can be IV, 4. Description: Climb 120m of broken slabby ground (II, bold) to a rock belay below and right of the icefall. A full 60m from here could get you to a good rock belay above the difficulties but the main ice pitch can be split with a rock belay in the cave on the right.
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