Climbs 326
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW
Earl in an evening © Adam Ellwood
Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.
The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]
Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.
The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]
Sad to see fresh chiselled edges in some of the smeary footholds today RyanR - 20/Jun/21 |
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