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Climbs 34
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 40m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Stratosfear 3rd Pitch © RAB623

Crag features

Earnsheugh offers some of the most gob-smacking seacliff climbing in Scotland, with loads of exposure on routes that are usually 2 or 3 pitches in length. The crag takes little time to dry after rain but can suffer from the dreaded coastal dampness. It's shelterd location can be both a hindrance as well as a godsend. Low humidity and winds from a West to Northerly direction generally give the best conditions. Some of the holds can feel a bit dirty but this only adds to the adventure. One of the best crags on the coast. 

"Must do" routes: Thugosaurus (E5 5b,6a,6a), Prehistoric Monster (E5 5b,6a,5b), Death Cap (E1 5a,5a), Necromancer (E5 5c,6a,5b),
Pterodactyl (E2 5a,5b,4c), Bat's Belfry (E2 5c,5c,5b).

Approach notes

Non-tidal, and may be one of the few climbable crags on the coast in high seas.

The base of the crag can be reached by scrambling, but it is more common to abseil from the stakes at the top.

Access Advice

Non-tidal, and may be one of the few climbable crags on the coast in high seas.

The base of the crag can be reached by scrambling, but it is more common to abseil.

As of 26th May 2018 Fulmer found sat on nest on first pitch of Cloisters (traverse ledge). Fulmer chicks on Death Cap 26/07/18 , best avoid route until fledged

Guidebooks

2nd June 2018. 2x nesting Fulmars up cloisters and one on ledge just down from 2nd belay of Death Cap
AliBaxter - 04/Jun/18
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Climbs at this crag

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