UKC

Climbs 35
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 24m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Death Cap at Earnsheugh © Hamish Frost

Crag features

Earnsheugh offers some of the most gob-smacking seacliff climbing in Scotland, with loads of exposure on routes that are usually 2 or 3 pitches in length. The crag takes little time to dry after rain but can suffer from the dreaded coastal dampness. It's shelterd location can be both a hindrance as well as a godsend. Low humidity and winds from a West to Northerly direction generally give the best conditions. Some of the holds can feel a bit dirty but this only adds to the adventure. One of the best crags on the coast. 

"Must do" routes: Thugosaurus (E5 5b,6a,6a), Prehistoric Monster (E5 5b,6a,5b), Death Cap (E1 5a,5a), Necromancer (E5 5c,6a,5b),
Pterodactyl (E2 5a,5b,4c), Bat's Belfry (E2 5c,5c,5b).

Approach notes

Non-tidal, and may be one of the few climbable crags on the coast in high seas.
The base of the crag can be reached by scrambling, but it is more common to abseil from the stakes at the top.

TO GET THERE: 

Drive to Findon, park either in town or as close to the unction of 'Findon Road' and 'Old Inn Road', respecting the neighbours. From that junction, take the dirt track that leads north east to a grass field. From the grass field continue north east to the cliff. 

TO REACH THE BASE:

1) Abseil about 50m from the top of Necromancer (stake/spike on a block 8m away from the edge).

2) Descent route on the west end (right end of the Right Wall facig in) that leads to a grassy bank. Start from the chimney-crack reach a platform and from there scramble down (precarious).

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

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