UKC

Climbs 194
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 320m a.s.l
Faces S

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Non eliminate version of Solid Air (6C+) © peewee2008

Crag features

A great little cliff, slabby and tall, in a sunny position and with the added attraction of only being a few minutes from the road. There are only a few routes here but the star count is high with a number of classics at amenable grades.

The crag faces south and is free draining, as such it makes a viable venue for most of the year and can be especially pleasant on clear winter days. The slope below the crag is thick with bracken in high summer.

Good topo here.

Approach notes

The crag is northeast of Skipton; from the Skipton by-pass follow signs to Embsay (miniature railway) then Eastby. As the road starts to climb to the moor beyond the village, the cliff is clearly visible on the left. Park sensibly on the left - room for about 5 cars.

Approach through the gate, just below the parking (with BMC sign) along a permitted footpath through the field. PLEASE CLOSE ALL GATES. The crag and the moor beyond are on CRoW Access Land.

Access Advice

Permission is no longer required to climb here. However, access still relies on a permissive agreement for passage through the grazing land. Please use the stiles and ensure all gates are closed.

There is a permanent dog ban in place under CRoW at the crag and the surrounding land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 20 April to 20 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels regularly nest on Eastby Buttress - if the birds are present avoid routes on this buttress until the young have fledged (usually by the end of June).

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More Guidebooks:
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014)

Out of print:
anyway - a better crag than it looks from a distance, and now properly open with the new access laws.
Stone Muppet - 31/Oct/05
um... not sure the Padder has decking potential. The lower crux is well protected, the upper is a little above the gear but not that serious (especially if a side runner is used).
Stone Muppet - 31/Oct/05
Nice crag, faces South so good all year. Lower graded climbs get a bit overgrown in spring / summer. Good in the VS to E2 region. "The Padder" is a good first E1 lead if you like slabs, but the crux is a bit exposed with serious decking out potential. Top rope it first if unsure
Tom - 22/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

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