15m.
Superlative.
Gain the fine wide crack with difficulty. Eases after the break.
Gain the fine wide crack with difficulty. Eases after the break.
FA. Duncan Waddington, Mike H., Stewart M., Elliot B. 03/Feb/2025.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| elliotlukeb | 7 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: 3 *** in my book. Graeme has a point but to find a wide, unclimbed crack like this which didn’t need any cleaning (although now has benefited from a clean) I was psyched. I yarded on that chockstone and slung it for protection - probably for the best that it’s gone if it was that loose ahah. 2 stars, 3 starts I don’t care, it’s class! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 3 *** in my book. Graeme has a point but to find a wide, unclimbed crack like this which didn’t need any cleaning (although now has benefited from a clean) I was psyched. I yarded on that chockstone and slung it for protection - probably for the best that it’s gone if it was that loose ahah. 2 stars, 3 starts I don’t care, it’s class! |
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| Graeme Hammond | 2 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Led OS, then upon abseiling for gear i had a chance to confirm what I suspected on lead that the obvious chockstone was barely held in and came out worryingly easily and could have caused a nasty accident, also removed the old nest blocking the crack here so you can now climb the crack rather than wrestle with a load of twigs etc. Re led afterwards, is now a safer and better route with no change in grade. Quite surprised it wasn't cleaned a bit more when it was first done to leave a lasting legacy for others to follow. Good quality for the quarry perhaps and just about 2 stars for the area for good line and ok climbing but an extreme exaggeration to give 3 stars or to describe the routes a superlative, this is something that IMO should only be used in reference to the very best routes in an area that would comparable to those of a similar style/size in other areas and worth making a special visit for. It certainly isn't as good as the best in Yorkshire in terms of quality of climbing or rock and the grim muddy topout which has been tammed with some digging by MT (something the FA should have done) so a hanging rope is nolonger required. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Led OS, then upon abseiling for gear i had a chance to confirm what I suspected on lead that the obvious chockstone was barely held in and came out worryingly easily and could have caused a nasty accident, also removed the old nest blocking the crack here so you can now climb the crack rather than wrestle with a load of twigs etc. Re led afterwards, is now a safer and better route with no change in grade. Quite surprised it wasn't cleaned a bit more when it was first done to leave a lasting legacy for others to follow. Good quality for the quarry perhaps and just about 2 stars for the area for good line and ok climbing but an extreme exaggeration to give 3 stars or to describe the routes a superlative, this is something that IMO should only be used in reference to the very best routes in an area that would comparable to those of a similar style/size in other areas and worth making a special visit for. It certainly isn't as good as the best in Yorkshire in terms of quality of climbing or rock and the grim muddy topout which has been tammed with some digging by MT (something the FA should have done) so a hanging rope is nolonger required. |
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Route of Interest
Air Combat
Grade: HVS ***
(Shibden Glen)