UKC

Climbs 248
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 191m a.s.l
Faces all

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Amazonian gritstone? Me on The Alamo (E2 5b), Eavestone, North Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Fantastic setting, hidden gems are dotted around two small lakes jam-packed full of jumping trout. The climbing is in accordance with Yorkshire grading (sandbags abound) and gives some excellent problems within a truly esoteric wooded area. [Chris George 12/02]

For 3 years from 1989 to 1991 this was my favourite crag, I rarely went anywhere else. However its not one to visit at late autumn. April/May is the best time, although on a dry but windy winter's day you will find some sheltered climbing and bouldering on the Wall on Mirrored Water and Boathouse buttress areas. The Fort stays fairly clean and dry as well. [Dave Musgrove 12/02]

Approach notes

If struggling to locate individual buttresses or their names using the rockfax guide, a full description of the routes and their locations can be found here.

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Guidebooks

Visited to check out top rope potential with our (small) kids. Not super child friendly, but the routes looked good, reasonably clean and with evidence of fresh chalk. Definitely keen to return.
Sam W - 22/Aug/16
A significant re-cleaning effort has been undertaken over the last few weeks, particularly on The Eavestone, Wedge and Wall on Mirrored Water. Tin Pan Alley is also in pretty good condition at the moment and 2 new routes have been added. On the Eavestone itself all routes from Stonechat Ramp round the back to Eavestone Wall have been repeated and Crazy Paver in its clean condition thought to compare well with any other 3 star E2 in Yorkshire. Go get them done whilst still clean.
Dave Musgrove - 31/Mar/12
Echoing others' comments here, a brilliant set of buttresses, good quality routes across a range of grades, and, as we found out today, fantastically sheltered when gale-force winds make Almscliff/Brimham etc a bit baltic for comfortable climbing. I was expecting the greenness to be a lot worse than it actually was; we weren't turned back from any routes by their being too dirty or green.
PeteH - 28/Mar/10
In agreement with Fiend, we went there 3/05/07 and had a pleasant evening. Did Portcullis and Spinnaker, if the routes were cleaner they would warrant a lot more attention. I had also climbed there the previous weekend doing routes on Sunnyside Buttress, quite a clean little outcrop.
Crofty - 04/May/07
Would be the best crag in Yorkshire by some way if it was all clean and in condition - the underlying rock quality, variety, and lines are superb. Even as it is now, shrouded by trees and rhodies, and with many routes in need of cleaning, there is still some excellent climbing. The Fort area is in good condition, and the Eavestone and Wedge have some great climbs on. Well worth a visit and deserves a lot more attention.
Fiend - 28/Mar/07
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Climbs at this crag

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