Restricted Access

This site is particularly important for its nesting bird and botanical interests.  As a result climbing is limited to bolted routes on the cliff faces indicated.  Current access to the cliffs is for a trial period of 12 months.  Any activity outside of the bolted routes could lead to closure of climbing access during this period or in subsequent years.

  • No new routes are permitted unless first agreed by Natural England. 
  • Follow any safety guidance provided on site.
  • The routes are close to the public access route through the Gorge - THINK PUBLIC SAFETY AS A PRIORITY AT ALL TIMES.  Climbing has the potential to harm innocent bystanders particularly by dislodging rocks or dropping kit.  It is vital that climbers are sensitive to the potential public safety implications of climbing here. Loose rock is always a possibility - be careful and alert when standing below those climbing, and always be aware, alerting walkers and others using the Gorge of your presence. If safe to do so, pause climbing activity until walkers and others are a safe distance from the base of the routes.  
  • Access to and use of the vegetated ledges above the routes is strictly forbidden for nature conservation and safety reasons. 
  • All climbers using the site must have public liability insurance cover of at least £10million.  This comes standard with BMC or MCofS membership or can be organised separately.  BMC/MCofS membership cards or details of your individual policy must be carried as proof of insurance cover whilst climbing on these cliffs.
12m. Start in the corner 5ms left of Galahad. Climb to a ledge at 3ms then ascend with difficulty the groove above to finish in the crack as for Galahad.


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Route of Interest
Rob's Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)

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