Rockfax Description
© Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1938 classic. 1800m, one to three or more days.
Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig V?rg, Fritz Kasparek & Heinrich Harrer 24/Jul/1938.
Ticklists
Six classic alpine North Faces , Big Routes , Alpine Grande Courses , Grossen and Rébuffat's Bernese Oberland: The 100 Most Beautiful Tours , Big Alpine Routes , Les Alpes Escalades , Dream alpine routes , Getting After It
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dougie | 7 Apr |
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βeta: 6/7 April 2025. Great conditions, well tracked and good weather. Started from first Gondola from Grindelwald 0800, base of wall 0930 and climbed to Brittle ledges Bivi just before the Brittle Crack 2000, dusk. Sustained climbing throughout, soloed up to the pitch before the Difficult Crack. Started climbing at 0700 on the 7 April and made the summit by 1530, again sustained climbing all the way. Passed by some speed climbers who’d started that morning - amazing to see! Some awesome pitches and history. Bit of rockfall from parties above from the Spider onwards. Exit cracks totally dry but didn’t need axes to climb it anyway, just cramponing/stemming on small steps with bare hands. Hard ice on summit slopes. Walked down West Flank in 3 hours but conditions were expectedly poor for a pm descent, then we walked on down to Kleine Schiedegg for a well earned beer in a lodge. Great meals there, basic but a little gem. Absolutely amazing route, tough, sustained. Wish I’d climbed it when I was a fit 32 compared to 54! Life time goal but started taking climbing a little more seriously 5 years ago. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 6/7 April 2025. Great conditions, well tracked and good weather. Started from first Gondola from Grindelwald 0800, base of wall 0930 and climbed to Brittle ledges Bivi just before the Brittle Crack 2000, dusk. Sustained climbing throughout, soloed up to the pitch before the Difficult Crack. Started climbing at 0700 on the 7 April and made the summit by 1530, again sustained climbing all the way. Passed by some speed climbers who’d started that morning - amazing to see! Some awesome pitches and history. Bit of rockfall from parties above from the Spider onwards. Exit cracks totally dry but didn’t need axes to climb it anyway, just cramponing/stemming on small steps with bare hands. Hard ice on summit slopes. Walked down West Flank in 3 hours but conditions were expectedly poor for a pm descent, then we walked on down to Kleine Schiedegg for a well earned beer in a lodge. Great meals there, basic but a little gem. Absolutely amazing route, tough, sustained. Wish I’d climbed it when I was a fit 32 compared to 54! Life time goal but started taking climbing a little more seriously 5 years ago. |
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| scottbecker | 25 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: A dream! | ||
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βeta: A dream! |
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