22 pitches.
VI 5.10 A4
The newest and possibly one of the most technical routes on El Cap. Start on Wall of the Early Morning Light, before breaking out right to join Space at its Base. This is climbed to pitch 10, with a 4 pitch independent variation to avoid the pitches that fell off, before climbing two of the most sandbagged A3 pitches on El Cap into the PO Wall. From there the Lateralus pitch breaks through the base of the giant slanting dihedral, almost all on marginal beaks, before salvation is found in bolts and hooks back to the PO. Follow this with supreme ease to the Island in the Sky, then puzzle through the Fear Inoculum and ascend the Weetabix like rock just left of the Cyclop’s Eye. From there one more A4 hooking section remains between you and the cruiser top Tempest pitches and the summit.
The A4 grade is New Wave, it is incomparable to trade route A4s. For context, the first ascensionists graded several Space pitches A3 that had previously been given A4+. Whilst it is mostly safe and often easy to bail onto other easier routes, it is incredibly technical.
The newest and possibly one of the most technical routes on El Cap. Start on Wall of the Early Morning Light, before breaking out right to join Space at its Base. This is climbed to pitch 10, with a 4 pitch independent variation to avoid the pitches that fell off, before climbing two of the most sandbagged A3 pitches on El Cap into the PO Wall. From there the Lateralus pitch breaks through the base of the giant slanting dihedral, almost all on marginal beaks, before salvation is found in bolts and hooks back to the PO. Follow this with supreme ease to the Island in the Sky, then puzzle through the Fear Inoculum and ascend the Weetabix like rock just left of the Cyclop’s Eye. From there one more A4 hooking section remains between you and the cruiser top Tempest pitches and the summit.
The A4 grade is New Wave, it is incomparable to trade route A4s. For context, the first ascensionists graded several Space pitches A3 that had previously been given A4+. Whilst it is mostly safe and often easy to bail onto other easier routes, it is incredibly technical.
Brandon Adams, Kristoffer Wickstrom Apr/2021.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
1 users have logged this
Guidebooks for El Capitan
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Lost in America
Grade: A4 ***
(El Capitan)