Rockfax Description
Five short pitches up the East Face give the easiest way to the summit - there are quite a few bolts in place but carry a rack to plug the gaps.
Descent - Abseil on 2 x 60m ropes. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Approach (10 mins)
From La Catedral viewpoint descend the footpath and follow the top of the saddle to where it meets the cliff.
P1 (20m) - scramble easily up the obvious line to a v-notch, 1 bolt belay
P2 (12m) - traverse right, on good foot ledges, 3 bolts en route. After third bolt continue upwards into a good stance, 2 bolt belay.
P3 (35m) - cross the gully and scramble up boulders, passing a hidden bolt in a shadowy corner. Take an easy angled ramp of rock and belay on the left just as it steepens, 2 bolt belay.
P4 (20m) - continue straight up leaving the chimney on your right or step back rightwards and ascend the steeper gully, squeezing through the a chockstone chimney if you fancy it (!) Pull leftwards onto the arete and make nice moves up to a friendly ledge below a steep wall, 2 bolt belay.
P5 (15m) - walk left along the ledge, then follow up a series of leftwards trending flakes to a large ledge. Continue around to the right (massive rope drag) for a few more easy steps to the top of the pinnacle.
Descent: 1x 70m or 2x60m rope(s) are enough.
Ab 30m down to P3s belay ledge. Scramble down left (facing in) towards a platform and a slight gravel path south-east. Take an easy angled ramp of rock down the gully, staying close to the south side, and find the second ab point in a dip just before it steepens, directly above gearing up point (35m ab).
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Efe Tunc | 28 Dec, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: It took us five hours to complete the route. We had lunch at pitch 3 and a snack at the summit. The rope got stuck after the first abseil needing me to solo up the chockstone (the crux) and back down again. The hardest and the best pitch is pitch 4. It is barely Vdiff and protected very well with a sling and cams in addition to the bolt on the left. One must divide the fifth pitch into two to help the second. Alternatively you can ascend directly to the summit which probably is HS or harder. Someone said they did the whole ascend and descend in 90min. Unless they were simul climbing I doubt the accuracy of this information. (?) In any case, the whole point of it is to enjoy the view, right? Correction to the route description here: You DON'T need 2x60m ropes to abseil. The longest abseil is the second one which is 35m so you need 2x35m ropes as a minimum. I used 40m ropes with plenty to spare. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: It took us five hours to complete the route. We had lunch at pitch 3 and a snack at the summit. The rope got stuck after the first abseil needing me to solo up the chockstone (the crux) and back down again. The hardest and the best pitch is pitch 4. It is barely Vdiff and protected very well with a sling and cams in addition to the bolt on the left. One must divide the fifth pitch into two to help the second. Alternatively you can ascend directly to the summit which probably is HS or harder. Someone said they did the whole ascend and descend in 90min. Unless they were simul climbing I doubt the accuracy of this information. (?) In any case, the whole point of it is to enjoy the view, right? Correction to the route description here: You DON'T need 2x60m ropes to abseil. The longest abseil is the second one which is 35m so you need 2x35m ropes as a minimum. I used 40m ropes with plenty to spare. |
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| maninblack | 11 Dec, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The bolts at the top of P5 have been chopped and holes filled with resin | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The bolts at the top of P5 have been chopped and holes filled with resin |
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Logged Ascents
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Via del diedro
Grade: 4b ***
(El Capricho)