Restricted Access
No climbing from 1 March to 30 September due to nesting birds. Additionally, the cliff is on private land and the landowner owns the property directly below it next to the road. Please follow the approach described and do not try to approach the crag directly from the road below. Any climbing on the large orange crag next to Corral East is banned.
Rockfax Description
A long route up the left flank of El Corral East with a choice of finishes. A great mini-adventure, incorporating easy-angled climbing, friendly character and comfortable belay ledges. The summit plateau has a spectacular 360-degree panoramic view.
Finding the route can be challenging. Start in some bushes just down and right from a tree. The first bolt is gold coloured.
1) 4b. Scramble up broken ground, to where a slabby move and easy scrambling leads to a short chimney and leftward-leading traverse. Belay at the foot of a slab.
2) 4b. Climb the short pocketed slab and walk up to below a steep mantelshelf move. Make the move on good holds from where a belay on a big ledge is easily gained.
3) 4b. Tackle the initial steep section to gain an enjoyable slab. A long pitch. It is easy to miss the belay that is off to the left.
4) 4b. Continue to the next stance and belay.
5) 4b. Climb to a large flat(ish) area. Clip a bolt near a small tufa on the steep wall before heading right. Either climb the dirty gully or its bounding right-hand rib. This brings you to the bottom of a chimney/crack. Squirm up this to a belay.
6) 3b. From the belay, head left over easy ground. Pick the easiest line scrambling over big blocks before heading back right up a rib to the belay.
Three-Sixty Direct - 6) 6a. Head straight up the technical bridging corner - quite thin, with an exposed feel.
Descent - Head forwards and right a few metres to the summit, and a flat clear patch. Facing the Escalera Arabe end of Frontales, head right (east) and downhill for about 10m. Look for small cairns down the slope heading north. Pick your way carefully down the slope following the cairns until you find the bolted abseil station. You cannot see the bolts until you are at the station, but the cairns will lead you there. Make a 30m abseil to the ground. Follow a track east to a col, where a path leads back to the base of the route - see overview on p.159. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jmoony11 | 9 Feb, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a loose block at the top of the small chimney just before the anchor at pitch 2. We scrambled to this point before roping up which I imagine quite a few parties would do as pitch 1 is mostly no more than scrambling. Beware, the block is enormous and looks part of the crag until enough weight is applied! (I’m 93kg) my partner who is 70kg said she didn’t feel it move. (I Don’t think I imagined it?). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a loose block at the top of the small chimney just before the anchor at pitch 2. We scrambled to this point before roping up which I imagine quite a few parties would do as pitch 1 is mostly no more than scrambling. Beware, the block is enormous and looks part of the crag until enough weight is applied! (I’m 93kg) my partner who is 70kg said she didn’t feel it move. (I Don’t think I imagined it?). |
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| mrkebabdriver | 24 Nov, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First ever multipitch - such a good day out! Pitch 4 had a spicy move, but the rest of it was just great fun. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First ever multipitch - such a good day out! Pitch 4 had a spicy move, but the rest of it was just great fun. |
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| JazFoz | 24 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Stunning views from the top, thoroughly recommended | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Stunning views from the top, thoroughly recommended |
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