Rockfax Description
A great route on superb rock formations with steep climbing.
1) 5b, 35m. From the ledge belay, step left to gain the crack-line steeply. Follow this upwards on great rock to a small depression. Pull steeply up left past a fixed thread, to gain the grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb the corner above then move left around the arete and climb direct carefully. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A steep route up the left side of Madman's Point
FA. P.Donnithorne, J.Hornsby 05/Oct/2003.
2019 all-rounder Psyche list , 50 Extemes at 50
User | Date | Notes | ||
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duncan | 3 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: Quite loose at the top of the south face abseil to the non-tidal ledge. Consider abseiling down west face (line of Madman’s Crack) if there are teams on The Gong and sea state allows. 50m rope just reaches the beach with a long rigging sling on the anchors. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Quite loose at the top of the south face abseil to the non-tidal ledge. Consider abseiling down west face (line of Madman’s Crack) if there are teams on The Gong and sea state allows. 50m rope just reaches the beach with a long rigging sling on the anchors. |
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james.slater | 15 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 50m rope just about reaches the belay ledge at sea level. Redirected with a cam below the gong. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 50m rope just about reaches the belay ledge at sea level. Redirected with a cam below the gong. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Mewsford Arches)