Climbs 33
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces E

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Getting the key heel hook before pulling into the groove on Shapeshifter © Richard_Lowe

Crag features

Seacliff of mixed igneous rock that from certain angles actually does look like an elephant! Routes mainly 15-22m in length and generally high quality. Mainly best for mid 6's up to 7b. High-quality gear [ie bolts] and all routes have lower offs. Gets sun till lunchtime. Mainly tidal but some routes available at any tide. As with any north east sea cliff, especially ones with caves, the routes can be greasy in humid weather though the more open routes and those above the tidal zone are often climbable.

Approach notes

Park on the minor road leading to Usan just beyond a white gate. Follow the track down under the rail bridge to the small clifftop graveyard. Take the steep and slippy (after rain) path down the south side of the Rock and then go through the first cave to access the east face.

At high tides when the through cave is awash then it is possible to access the crag by walking north from the graveyard along the field edge. At the north end of the bay a path leads down the grassy slope to the pebble beach. Don't be tempted down the gully which flanks the rock to the immediate north, it is wet and very unpleasant.

This approach also gives the best view of the "elephant" !

Lots of Martins nesting at the minute. Some routes are climable without going near any but best to stay away for a while.
ross - 15/Jul/22
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