UKC

500m.

Rockfax Description
III, 550m, 8 hours. A great ridge up the east side of the Aiguille du Plan.
Approach - Follow scree southwards from the Refuge de l'Envers des Aiguilles, past the foot of the Pointes des Nantillons, to reach the north branch of the Envers de Blaitière Glacier. Climb this directly to the route.
1) 4a. Cross the bergschrund (usually easier said than done) and scramble up a series of slabs and ledges for 100m to reach the long ledge system. Follow this rightwards, across the crest of the ridge, to reach the Plan-Crocodile Couloir. The ledge system is identifiable by a huge detached flake near the start and is little more than scrambling until a short chimney (4a) at the far end.
2) Climb the couloir for 150m, usually on the left, to reach a shoulder coming into the couloir from the main ridge. In early season this will be snowy but otherwise it is broken, slabby rock. There is often rockfall danger here so keep moving and get this section done as quickly as possible. There is some fixed gear on the left of the couloir, but don't be tempted out left and stay in the couloir as far as the shoulder.
3) 4c. Follow the shoulder onto the crest of the main ridge and go up this to a steep step. The step consists of several (the exact number will depend on how you break up the pitches) chimneys and cracks (4c) which lead to the famous 'Grandmother Crack'.
4) 4c. The Grand-Mère Crack is the climbing crux of the route and is a wide, left-facing corner above a stone-covered ledge. At a grade of 4c, it is distinctly old fashioned and has been the scene of many a humbling!
5) 4c. Continue up the crest via cracks (4c) and then, upon reaching a Y-shaped overhanging crack, move left and stay left of the ridge crest from here on.
6) 4c. A system of grooves and chimneys (still sustained at old-fashioned 4c) lead out left to easier ground to the southwest of the summit. Follow ledges and short corners to the top.
Descent - Either reverse the Midi-Plan Traverse back to the Aiguille du Midi, or descend the Glacier d'Envers du Plan back to the Mer de Glace and continue on down to the Montenvers train. This descent is highly condition dependent and can only be done in early season when there is still plenty of snow. Even then, it is long and potentially dangerous so check whether conditions are good if you are considering heading down this way. Whichever descent you choose, crampons and an ice axe are required so you will need to carry them up the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic alpine rock route to the summit of the Aig. du Plan

Ticklists

Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

2 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Envers des Aiguilles

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 28 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Route of Interest
Aiguille Chenavier Couloir

Grade: D+ ***
(Les Courtes)

Loading Notifications...