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Rockfax Description
II, 550m. A wonderful long route which is one of the classics of the Envers and a tough challenge even for a strong team. The ramp on the first pitch and the groove of pitch 3 are clearly visible during the approach and make for good landmarks.
1) 5b. Follow a vague ramp out left, passing a few pegs.
2) 5c. Step up and left from the belay then cross left over the line of bolts (which are part of the rarely climbed La dolce vita) then traverse back right to reach the foot of a groove formed by a pillar.
3) 6a. Climb up to the left of the pillar via cracks and flakes to belay on top of the pillar.
4) 6a+. Drift up and slightly right on a slab to reach a belay beneath a small roof. It's possible to avoid the tricky part of this pitch by moving down and right from the foot of the tough section and then coming back to rejoin the pitch 10m further up.
5) 6a. Step left and go through the roof and up the crack above.
6) 6a+. Go to the left-hand edge of the belay ledge and then climb the crack/groove system above.
7) 6a. Slabs, followed by a crack equipped with bolts.
8) 6a. Go up a short corner, then move right up a rib before passing leftwards under a roof.
9) 5c. Climb a corner then step right and climb another to reach the ledges which split the face. A bolt with a loop of cord through it marks the end of the lower section.
The original Children of the Moon finished here but you'd be missing much of the good climbing if you bail from here, so if conditions and fitness allow, keep going! The route is 320m up to this point.
10) 6a. Cross a small gully on the left and then climb the gradually steepening slab.
11) 6b. Climb a crack then a tough slab leftwards.
12) 3b. Easily cross the gully to the right.
13) 6b. Climb a superb series of cracks to a bolt. Clip this then make a tough step out right to another steep crack system and follow this to an exposed ledge.
14) 6a. Climb the superb hand-crack above the belay. This is well protected provided you can hang around on hand-jams long enough to place the gear.
15) 6a. Head up the superb red wall via twin cracks.
16) 6a. A more broken pitch up cracks, passing two bolts.
17) 6a+. Go up towards a roof but avoid it on the left via a corner. Go left onto a slab above this and pass through a small overlap to reach a good ledge.
18) 6a. Climb short cracks linking ledges to gain a shoulder on the Aiguille du Roc's south ridge. Take in the view then get abseiling! There is an off-line abseil below pitch 12 which gives more direct access to the lower section.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Alpine Dreamz, GUMC boys ChaM dREAM holiday

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High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 3
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
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DNF
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Route of Interest

Bettembourg-Thivierge

Grade: TD+ 6b ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)