Rockfax Description
II, 140m. Although part of a full route, the top half of this line is nowhere near as good as the first few pitches and sees almost no ascents. The first section, on the other hand, is superb and makes for a tough but worthwhile start to L'alchemie du temps qui passe. The belays may be re-equipped but this had not been done at the time of writing so be prepared to build your own (easy enough given the abundance of good cracks). The first pitch grows every year as the glacier recedes and is likely to require an intermediate belay. The groove that the pitch follows is very uniform so the grade should not change.
1) 6c. Follow the groove/crack system to a small, sloping ledge.
2) 5c. Climb the cracked slab to another small platform.
3) 6c. Step up and right then go directly up to the prominent roof straight above. Climb through this via some steep jamming to reach a flat ledge beneath an open-book corner
4) 6b. Climb the corner to a platform and from here, continue up L'alchemie du temps qui passe. © Rockfax

FA. G.Hopfgartner, M.Piola 14.7.1984 14/Jul/1984.

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