UKC

Climbs 127
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces N

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Eppenberg Sector Roggenhusersteinbruch, left hand side © rlrs

Crag features

Single pitch sport climbs in 4 different sectors, topo boards and route tags to guide the casual visitor. Sectors B and C are family friendly with room to chill out at the base of the crag.

Sector C faces east, and gets sun until about 2 pm (in September). Routes are quite sandy and extremely polished. The easier routes have even had cement set on the holds to give extra friction! Overhung by trees which mean that that the crag stays dry even during a couple of hours of moderate to heavy rain. Grades are a bit stiff, even allowing something for the polish, but the cllimbing is worthwhile. The other sectors face north. Sector D is 5-10 minutes walk away, and only worth a visit when everthing else is done.  Far better is sector A which has cleaner, if still polished rock, and sector B which is similar to sector C in character. These sectors are pretty much adjacent to each other.

Oct 2021: Note that the klettersteig in sector B is closed due to being in unsafe condition:

https://www.ig-klettern-jurasuedfuss.ch/eppenberg-klettersteig-gesperrt-6-oktober-2021

Approach notes

For Sectors C and D, it is no longer allowed (Sep. 2021) to drive south up Eppenbergstrasse from the main road at Woschnau, to access these sectors:

https://www.ig-klettern-jurasuedfuss.ch/eppenberg-wer-hier-klettert-achtet-das-fahrverbot-24-september-2021

From the above link a map recommending parking at Woschnau or (better) as for the Tierpark further east. The parking as for sectors A and B below will give a nicer approach though (Tierpark tieren notwithstanding).

For Sectors A and B it is quicker to approach by car from the west along Riedbrunnenstrasse, where there is a free parking lot on the south side of the road, just before the turn-off to Fohrackerweg. A clear path in the woods heading north-west leads to the crags in 5-10 minutes, the final turn off on the left to the crags is signposted, but note that paths on the left before this lead to the top of the dodgy via ferrata (klettersteig) that is actually now closed (see above).

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