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Climbs 344
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces E

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This photograph was taken at night. Whilst exposing I have climbed a route with a head torch on, to show the line of the climb. © neal grundy

Crag features

THERE IS NOW A TEMPORARY SUSPENSION OF CLIMBING AT ERIDGE UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE!

Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag.

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. You may climb on routes from the south end (by the car park) of the crag up to, and including, Dr. Kemp's Cure. From here, climbing is banned up to and including Higher Purchase. The exceptions are the three climbs 'Sandstorm', 'The Crunch' and 'More Cake For Me' where climbing is permitted but chalk is not allowed. Climbing is also banned from Moroccan Roll to the north end of the crag. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.
Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.

Access Banned

Unprecedented numbers have been climbing at Eridge during the Covid-19 crisis, resulting in considerable and accelerated wear to the fragile rock on many parts of the crag. As a result, the difficult decision has been taken to temporarily restrict climbing access to the whole crag to allow time for the rock to stabilise.

We hope to be able to speed up this process with hold repair methods used on other sandstone crags, but given the rare botany and SSSI status of the site, this needs approval by the landowner, Sussex Wildlife Trust (SWT), and Natural England. Please bear with us while discussions are ongoing, and help demonstrate to SWT that climbers are responsible users by climbing elsewhere for the time being – future access to this crag depends on our individual actions and responsible behaviour now.

The restriction will be constantly reviewed and we hope to lift it as soon as the damaged holds can be stabilised. Any updates to the restriction will be posted on this page and on site signage as soon as the situation changes.

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