UKC

Climbs 358
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces E

View Stats

This photograph was taken at night. Whilst exposing I have climbed a route with a head torch on, to show the line of the climb. © neal grundy

Crag features

Please check the BMC RAD and www.southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk before climbing at Eridge. 
 

No chalk or chalk substitutes allowed. No brushing holds allowed. 
Eridge is a site of special scientific interest (SSSI) and is owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust. Please adhere to the sandstone code of practice and the eridge agreement before climbing here. Some areas are banned so please check the Rockfax App/BMC RAD before climbing here. 

Height varying between 5 and 10m. Variable quality, from lichenous and friable to clean and solid. Like other soft sandstone crags, either solo or use topropes with extended slings. Do not let ropes rub the rock. The bouldering here can be fantastic in late summer, when the shady aspect means it is cooler (and quieter) than Bowles or Harrisons. Very reminiscent of Font, especially at the Northern (RH) end of the crag. Can get midgy. 

Please note there are some areas where climbing is banned as part of the access agreement. Please respect the access conditions. If you see poor belaying methods please advise on the correct procedure. A carpet sample is very useful for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed now on some parts of the crag - an access agreement has been negotiated with the owners - Sussex Wildlife Trust. There is a no chalk allowed rule in place. Please read the Crag Features above for limitations. The Rocks are a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). Make sure you know where you are allowed to climb.

Take the A26 Tunbridge Wells-Crowborough rd; 4km S of Tunbridge Wells, Pass through Eridge and turn R onto a narrow lane by Eridge church. Drive for 200m past a small row of houses to a car park right next to the first main buttress.

Restricted Access

Eridge Rocks Nature Reserve Climbing Agreement 

The climbing restrictions on the main crag at Eridge Rocks have been lifted after agreement with Sussex Wildlife Trust and repair of the damage caused by climbers/ boulderers in 2020.

The revised agreement is shown in its entirety below. Please be aware that the areas where climbing is permitted has been reviewed  as below. Please note that the permitted and restricted areas shown in guidebooks no longer apply.. The permitted and restricted areas are marked by wooden posts, similar to those used to depict restrictions (such as bird bans) at other sensitive crags. If you observe climbers/boulderers in restricted areas or using chalk or a substitute, please point out the agreement and ask them to observe its conditions.

 

SWT - BMC Agreement:

1.The areas where climbing/bouldering is allowed will be reviewed by the SWT in consultation with the BMC every six years to coincide with the SWT’s bryophyte surveys.

2.The BMC will work with climbers and SWT to ensure guidelines are adhered to. 

3.SWT reserve the right to close climbing on site or on particular climbs if guidelines are not being followed causing damage to the reserve.

4.Under SWT supervision, the BMC are permitted to carry out shellac rock treatment to repair any damage to the rock surface caused by climbing on designated climbing routes. 

 

Climber/Boulderer Agreement:

As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following:

1.Climbing/bouldering is allowed from Close to You to Thin Layback, from Mosquito to More Cake for Me, from Yew Crack to Fandango and from Optical Racer to Portcullis inclusive. Climbing/bouldering outside these areas is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here (Note: discussions are still taking place as to the area between the car park and the A26 and for the time being this area will remain closed for climbing/bouldering).

2.Climbing/bouldering by organised groups is not permitted. 

3.Use of chalk or other substitutes is prohibited on all climbs/boulder-problems. 

4.On site signage will be followed indicting which climbs are open or closed, even if this contradicts with guidebook information.

5.Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds , take care only to remove loose sand and debris. 

6.The rock at the top of the block above the car park (Equilibrium Wall etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings).

loads of top quality bouldering, but please keep the chalk to a minimum and only climb in the designated areas as stated on the sign in the car park. very unstable access at the moment.
ian h - 26/Nov/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers emmaharrington and daimon

Loading Notifications...