UKC

24m. Climb the first few metres of Agamemnon, place a high runner or two level with two Imps (other small brass wires available) pre-placed just below the triangular side-pull. Down climb until level with a down pointing spike on the left. Climb to the spike and make hard moves up and slightly right past the Imps to the a large slippery sidepull. From the sidepull climb left and then back right to a small Basalt column and under-clings. Good gear. Move up and right until it is possible to stand on the top of the spike of Agamemnon. Arrange gear before climbing into the base of the steep v-groove above which is level with a flying arĂȘte on the right. Pull onto the arĂȘte using a hidden hold on the right and climb it to the top.

Nick Bullock 02/May/2014.

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User Date Notes
Nick Bullock 23 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: To climb this route at the grade, two pre-placed brass wires were used and a side runner level with them. To climb it without would take the grade up a fair amount.
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βeta: To climb this route at the grade, two pre-placed brass wires were used and a side runner level with them. To climb it without would take the grade up a fair amount.

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Guidebooks for Esgair Maen Gwyn (Scimitar Ridge)

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
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High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
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Route of Interest
Purr-Spire Direct

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))

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