3 pitches.
5a,5b,5b
1) 5a - a new first pitch up the wide crack on the leaning pillar gives excellent steep jamming. Start in cave feature and climb out round the front of the leaning blocks. Enter the wide crack (large purple cam is useful) and continue to a good rest at midway. Continue up past the steep bulge to easier climbing. When near the top of the crack move left on ledges into the grassy groove. Continue up this for 2/3m until a stance and belay can be taken.
D. Connor, J. Boyd, J. Ramsey 1/10/24
2) Continue up the groove following the clean rock until a step out left and up a steep crack can be made. At the top of this crack traverse left along a ledge system to reach a clean corner. Climb this to the roof, where a hands free rest can be found. Pull round the roof on brilliant jams and awesome exposure. A good belay can be found on large ledges 2m or so above the roof. This splits the route more evenly and provides a longer third pitch.
3) Climb the steep bridging groove and exit left at the top
1) 5a - a new first pitch up the wide crack on the leaning pillar gives excellent steep jamming. Start in cave feature and climb out round the front of the leaning blocks. Enter the wide crack (large purple cam is useful) and continue to a good rest at midway. Continue up past the steep bulge to easier climbing. When near the top of the crack move left on ledges into the grassy groove. Continue up this for 2/3m until a stance and belay can be taken.
D. Connor, J. Boyd, J. Ramsey 1/10/24
2) Continue up the groove following the clean rock until a step out left and up a steep crack can be made. At the top of this crack traverse left along a ledge system to reach a clean corner. Climb this to the roof, where a hands free rest can be found. Pull round the roof on brilliant jams and awesome exposure. A good belay can be found on large ledges 2m or so above the roof. This splits the route more evenly and provides a longer third pitch.
3) Climb the steep bridging groove and exit left at the top
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| BrenT | 3 Jun |
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βeta: Very good route now super clean, well protected. Looks ominous for the grade from below but is surprisingly easy climbing given the angle and terrain. Great alternative to burn up. Very comparable grade, maybe more sustained and a little longer overall. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very good route now super clean, well protected. Looks ominous for the grade from below but is surprisingly easy climbing given the angle and terrain. Great alternative to burn up. Very comparable grade, maybe more sustained and a little longer overall. |
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| DannyConnor | 29 May |
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βeta: Gets E2 in new Dalriada grade suggestions | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Gets E2 in new Dalriada grade suggestions |
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| DannyConnor | 3 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: 12 hours worth of cleaning and route is now in a decent condition with a better first pitch added | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 12 hours worth of cleaning and route is now in a decent condition with a better first pitch added |
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| zcsharp | 1 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Don't climb unless it's been very dry before hand, last pitch is a nightmare wet. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Don't climb unless it's been very dry before hand, last pitch is a nightmare wet. |
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Guidebooks for Fair Head
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Route of Interest
Burn Up
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Fair Head)