UKC

85m, 3 pitches. About 35m right of the Fang there is a black towering groove with huge vegetated grooves on either side, the right-hand one capped by a triangular overhang. This very fine route takes the impressive central black groove.
1) 37m (6a). Climb the corner (possible stance at 12m) to a difficult bulge at 30m. Continue past a small overhang to a stance at a flake below the obvious black triangular overhang.
2) 30m (5c). Bridge around the overhang and jam the magnificent corner crack to the final roof. Follow the crack out left round the overhang onto the head wall to a belay in a sling on a large spike.
3) 18m (4c). Hand traverse left to a short groove which gives access to flakes leading up left to the top.

A Strapcans, G Jenkins, G Desroy 28/Aug/1979.

Ticklists

FAIRHEAD 2021 , FH 2022 , Ireland 2022 , FH 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dan_Shaff 5 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Really great route with very contrasting pitches! We spent a bit of time trying to find a good place to ab off. Some people told us to ab at the Bealach RĂșnda ab in but it would probably take a while to walk along the base of the cliff to the start. We ended up abing off a boulder west of the Fang, between the Fang and Dark Forces. After you ab, Dark Forces will be on your right as you face the cliff.
Show beta
βeta: Really great route with very contrasting pitches! We spent a bit of time trying to find a good place to ab off. Some people told us to ab at the Bealach RĂșnda ab in but it would probably take a while to walk along the base of the cliff to the start. We ended up abing off a boulder west of the Fang, between the Fang and Dark Forces. After you ab, Dark Forces will be on your right as you face the cliff.

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
GBH

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Fair Head)

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