UKC Logbook - 'Judgement Day'

75m, 2 pitches. A serious route which covers impressive terrain involving a variety of climbing styles. Protection is laughable where it counts! Abseil inspection recommended, a third rope also makes life easier on the initial traverse.
45m (6b) Climb Heaven can Wait for 12m to a large niche 5m below a small roof. Arrange runners then gain a good undercut on the left via technical bridging, climb boldly across the wall to reach the arête at a large hanging pillar. Compose yourself at the top of this before following the arete on the right, passing a cluster of poor gear, until thin climbing gains the left hand side at a blunt spike. Continue up the arête boldly until two cracks appear, belay on ab rope.
30m (6a) Easier than pitch 1 but still bold! Climb the twin cracks to a blocky ledge, from here trend left up a ramp to surmount a bulge on good holds (Good RP and some skyhook trickery). Step left into the blank slabby groove, smear up this, heart in mouth, to reach the huge fang and runners – phew! Climb the pleasant corner above which has one tricky move.

R. Cummings, A. Moles 30/Sep/2017.

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User	Date		Notes
Rory_Cummings_NI	25 Aug	Show βeta βeta: I trundled the pillar and some flakes off the arete when cleaning Terminator, no change to the grade but the route description has been updated. 75m, 2 pitches. A serious route which covers impressive terrain involving a variety of climbing styles. Protection is laughable where it counts! Abseil inspection recommended, a third rope also makes life easier on the initial traverse. 45m (6b) Climb Heaven can Wait for 12m to a large niche 5m below a small roof. Arrange runners then gain a good undercut on the left via technical bridging, climb boldly across the wall to reach the arête at a sloping ledge. Compose yourself here (gear in a crack down and left) before following the arete on the right. Pass a cluster of poor gear, and continue up the wall until thin climbing gains the arete again at a blunt spike. Continue up the arête boldly until two cracks appear, hanging belay here. 30m (6a) Easier than pitch 1 but still bold! Climb the twin cracks to a blocky ledge, from here trend left up a ramp to surmount a bulge on good holds (RP and some skyhook trickery). Step left into the blank slabby groove, smear up this, heart in mouth, to reach the huge fang and runners – phew! Climb the pleasant corner above which has one tricky move.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I trundled the pillar and some flakes off the arete when cleaning Terminator, no change to the grade but the route description has been updated. 75m, 2 pitches. A serious route which covers impressive terrain involving a variety of climbing styles. Protection is laughable where it counts! Abseil inspection recommended, a third rope also makes life easier on the initial traverse. 45m (6b) Climb Heaven can Wait for 12m to a large niche 5m below a small roof. Arrange runners then gain a good undercut on the left via technical bridging, climb boldly across the wall to reach the arête at a sloping ledge. Compose yourself here (gear in a crack down and left) before following the arete on the right. Pass a cluster of poor gear, and continue up the wall until thin climbing gains the arete again at a blunt spike. Continue up the arête boldly until two cracks appear, hanging belay here. 30m (6a) Easier than pitch 1 but still bold! Climb the twin cracks to a blocky ledge, from here trend left up a ramp to surmount a bulge on good holds (RP and some skyhook trickery). Step left into the blank slabby groove, smear up this, heart in mouth, to reach the huge fang and runners – phew! Climb the pleasant corner above which has one tricky move.