UKC

35m. The groove in the right arĂȘte of the The Conning Tower buttress. Very good value despite a rather loose finish.

UPDATE (13.6.21): there has been a report of a recent and significant rockfall from near the top, with some very loose rock remaining.

FA. R.Connaly 1993.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Solo Circuit

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User Date Notes
Jakob Annerdal 9 Apr Show βeta
βeta: First climb back after 3 years of no climbing, fun route. Anchor to the left at the very top, Slightly away from the loose boulders.
βeta?
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βeta: First climb back after 3 years of no climbing, fun route. Anchor to the left at the very top, Slightly away from the loose boulders.
kiwi boy 17 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Belay is a long way back
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βeta: Belay is a long way back
kiwi boy 3 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: It is likely that the large block will come off soon from the top section. Great care is needeed
βeta?
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βeta: It is likely that the large block will come off soon from the top section. Great care is needeed
mikehenesy 12 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Big rock fall at the top of the route. Big block dislodged resulting in lots of debris sitting precariously on the scrambly bit above where the climbing proper finishes. You can't see it at the base of the route and the climb itself is still intact and looks ok. As well as the loose stuff the rest of the remaining 'solid' rock could do with careful inspection, beware!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big rock fall at the top of the route. Big block dislodged resulting in lots of debris sitting precariously on the scrambly bit above where the climbing proper finishes. You can't see it at the base of the route and the climb itself is still intact and looks ok. As well as the loose stuff the rest of the remaining 'solid' rock could do with careful inspection, beware!
Eduardo2010 26 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose at the top, care needed
βeta?
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βeta: Loose at the top, care needed
alasdaircavaye 28 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block at top
βeta?
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βeta: Loose block at top
MarkBeirne 22 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 2m below the belay tree I pulled on a layback and it snapped off in my hands. Check the rocks, there seems to have been quite a lot of recent rock fall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2m below the belay tree I pulled on a layback and it snapped off in my hands. Check the rocks, there seems to have been quite a lot of recent rock fall.
LukeAllum 30 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Careful belay at top as one piece on the right that's been used many times has become very loose. Great route for people to learn to lead.
βeta?
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βeta: Careful belay at top as one piece on the right that's been used many times has become very loose. Great route for people to learn to lead.
Dominic_H 14 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Large boulders on the scramble to the top are unstable. Climb and build belay with caution. Excellent route though for someones first trad climb as the route will take lots of gear, all from comfortable positions.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large boulders on the scramble to the top are unstable. Climb and build belay with caution. Excellent route though for someones first trad climb as the route will take lots of gear, all from comfortable positions.

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