UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.

Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.

Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:

  • Take all of your litter and any you find away with you to dispose of responsibly.
  • Responsible parking is essential to maintain access - see the 'parking and approach' section below for more information.
  • The only people with permission to be within the fenced area are cavers and climbers. If you find other people in the quarry please ask them to leave.
  • Parts of the quarry could be unstable and potentially dangerous for the unaware. In particular young or inexperienced climbers should be closely supervised at all times.
  • The quarry forms part of a larger SSSI and European SAC (Special Area of Conservation). Natural England are monitoring the rare flora and fauna within the quarry so avoid removing any vegetation without checking with the local Access Rep or Access Officer first.

Descents:

Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.

  • The best abseil descent (easier to pull through) from the Robs Crack area is from a pair of stakes with wire strops and maillon situated above Who Needs Hair Anyway i.e. next to the Hawthorn bush on the crag edge about 50m left (facing out) of Robs Crack.
  • A strop and maillon have been added to the stake above Halfway to Kansas/Lumbar Puncture, another above Balch's Slide and another above Senile Taff Corner to facilitate abseiling.
  • All routes in the Glacis area have lower offs in place.
  • The Alpine Ridge can be ascended/descended as a relatively easy but exposed scramble.
20m. Start a little way up the muddy gully at a block below and right of a cave entrance. Climb cracks up to the overlap and gain the slab by a tricky leftward move. Make a couple of delicate moves rightwards along the bottom of the slab to gain the obvious left-rising crack. Climb this for a few awkward moves until a tasty rockover, utilising an obvious side pull, gains a standing position in the crack. Climb the rest of the slab on good edges and finish up the arĂȘte.

FA. M.Davies, S.Coombes 07/Oct/2007.

Ticklists

Pylon King Forever in our Hearts

Feedback

User Date Notes
Zhi Yuan 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Not worth the faff of getting to it, alright climbing at the bottom up onto the lip. Chossy AF at the top, rocks falling everywhere, green with cracks full of mud. Easy for the grade, nice shiny bolt at the bottom for belayer. Tree and big rock for anchor at the top are quite far back, rock wobbles a nanoinch if you stand on it and try and move it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not worth the faff of getting to it, alright climbing at the bottom up onto the lip. Chossy AF at the top, rocks falling everywhere, green with cracks full of mud. Easy for the grade, nice shiny bolt at the bottom for belayer. Tree and big rock for anchor at the top are quite far back, rock wobbles a nanoinch if you stand on it and try and move it.
DaveX 4 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Really good route, felt easier than it looked from a distance. Some good gear throughout, tricky getting past the overlap today with some wet footholds and mud in the hands.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really good route, felt easier than it looked from a distance. Some good gear throughout, tricky getting past the overlap today with some wet footholds and mud in the hands.

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