The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. I.Harryman, P.Debbage 25/Apr/2002.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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MattyDredge | 3 Sep |
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βeta: In my opinion still climbable with care - we were in before 8am so no risk to any other climbers. Could be given an XS grade but just don\'t think it\'s as bad as others believe. | βeta? | |
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βeta: In my opinion still climbable with care - we were in before 8am so no risk to any other climbers. Could be given an XS grade but just don't think it's as bad as others believe. |
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Gray Warner | 17 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Really broken up and loose in-fill pouring out of large piece ⅓ up. Other climber's belayer injured by falling rock on the day, not great. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really broken up and loose in-fill pouring out of large piece ⅓ up. Other climber's belayer injured by falling rock on the day, not great. |
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clipskipper | 2 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: The route says take slings, but the half height trees are compromised due to rock fall (loose roots) and the others mostly dead. | ||
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βeta: The route says take slings, but the half height trees are compromised due to rock fall (loose roots) and the others mostly dead. |
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mattyr | 30 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Lots of loose choss, belayers helmet essential. wouldn’t have climbed had I known how bad the top of the bottom thirds was. | ||
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βeta: Lots of loose choss, belayers helmet essential. wouldn’t have climbed had I known how bad the top of the bottom thirds was. |
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AidanBoyce1 | 8 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Getting dangerous big rockfall potential... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Getting dangerous big rockfall potential... |
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Nathan8816 | 8 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: A roughly 2x3m block has come off at some point, about 5metres up, so there’s a really loose, questionable section in the middle where the route once was. Didn’t trust it was stable so down-climbed instead | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A roughly 2x3m block has come off at some point, about 5metres up, so there’s a really loose, questionable section in the middle where the route once was. Didn’t trust it was stable so down-climbed instead |
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tarawatson | 26 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: guide doesn\'t have hardly any foliage, in reality there is plenty and very slippery top out on grass. | ||
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βeta: guide doesn't have hardly any foliage, in reality there is plenty and very slippery top out on grass. |
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towkneebe | 14 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: There\'s a good tree belay at the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's a good tree belay at the top. |
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