UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.

Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.

Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:

  • Take all of your litter and any you find away with you to dispose of responsibly.
  • Responsible parking is essential to maintain access - see the 'parking and approach' section below for more information.
  • The only people with permission to be within the fenced area are cavers and climbers. If you find other people in the quarry please ask them to leave.
  • Parts of the quarry could be unstable and potentially dangerous for the unaware. In particular young or inexperienced climbers should be closely supervised at all times.
  • The quarry forms part of a larger SSSI and European SAC (Special Area of Conservation). Natural England are monitoring the rare flora and fauna within the quarry so avoid removing any vegetation without checking with the local Access Rep or Access Officer first.

Descents:

Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Ants In My Legloops. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.

 

  • The best abseil descent (easier to pull through) from the Robs Crack area is from a pair of stakes with wire strops and maillon situated above Who Needs Hair Anyway i.e. next to the Hawthorn bush on the crag edge about 50m left (facing out) of Robs Crack.
  • Sept 2022: The strops above Halfway to Kansas/Lumbar Puncture and Balches Slide have been removed (BMC approved).  There is now a strop to abseil from above Ants In My Legloops.
  • All routes in the Glacis area have lower offs in place.
  • The Alpine Ridge can be ascended/descended as a relatively easy but exposed scramble.
35m.

Rockfax Description
The left-to-right leading crack-line that crosses the left-hand side of the glacis. Follow the crack-line until at a buddleia tree pursue a line up cracks to a fixed lower-off. Originally the route continued past the buddleia and then headed to the top but this section has now become vegetated. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious rising crack which crosses the left-hand slab of the glacis from left-to-right. Once a few metres past the buddleia, go more directly up to a lower-off (extended down from the large tree at the quarry rim).

FA. J.Stanbury, R.A.Broomhead 01/Jun/2002.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge , Somerset Sufferfest

Feedback

User Date Notes
powelli 29 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Kind of muddy at the top and loose blocks/jugs held in by mud near the anchors. Be careful what you pull on, especially if there's others gearing up below the anchors.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Kind of muddy at the top and loose blocks/jugs held in by mud near the anchors. Be careful what you pull on, especially if there's others gearing up below the anchors.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Fairy Cave Quarry

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 50
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rob's Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)

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