The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. M.Raine, R.Nadin 26/Sep/2002.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kayla Painter | 8 Sep |
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βeta: P2 loose rock and blocks at the top - care needed | βeta? | |
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βeta: P2 loose rock and blocks at the top - care needed |
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kiwi boy | 3 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Great care needed on topping out of the second pitch. Many large loose blocks | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great care needed on topping out of the second pitch. Many large loose blocks |
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Nathan8816 | 12 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: The top out is incredibly loose, there are lots of big blocks that could easily be pulled off | βeta? | |
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βeta: The top out is incredibly loose, there are lots of big blocks that could easily be pulled off |
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Itsagoatlife | 4 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: First pitch was lovely. Second pitch started nice albeit poorly protected. Loose flakes later on, be careful on holds. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First pitch was lovely. Second pitch started nice albeit poorly protected. Loose flakes later on, be careful on holds. |
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JimOakleyAdventures | 1 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Sparse pro until your 5m up next to overlap, small but a metre over top. Big ledge to regroup and decide which of the three options available to you.... Again, no pro until another 5m shuffle. Loose at top but enjoyable Stakes 13m back from top by fence. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Sparse pro until your 5m up next to overlap, small but a metre over top. Big ledge to regroup and decide which of the three options available to you.... Again, no pro until another 5m shuffle. Loose at top but enjoyable Stakes 13m back from top by fence. |
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towkneebe | 14 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Needs small nuts for protection - microwires, no 1 and 2\'s. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Needs small nuts for protection - microwires, no 1 and 2's. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)