The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
A fine climb that follows the snaking line of thin cracks up the tallest section of the slab. Start up the right edge of the slab and then follow the crack-line, past a sapling to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This is the obvious crack in Rob's Slab. Climb the short rib just left of the overlaps to gain the crack; then follow the crack to where it trends slightly left (crux). Continue more easily as the crack goes straight up a short way, then bends to the right past a sapling high on the slab.
FA. R.Connaly, J.Swift 1993.
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Best slab climbs of the UK , Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , South West Climbs for a Northerner , CUMC Ticklist , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Bristol Crack School , South West Classic VS's , Fairy Cave Solo Circuit , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge , 22 For 2022 , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Desperate for Crack (near Bristol) , Somerset Sufferfest , Road to lundy
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JimOakleyAdventures | 6 Jun |
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βeta: Led this three years ago. A little more polished but manageable. You have sooo much choice of gear placements. Led it as one and abseiled off collecting gear as Mikes knee had played him up | ||
Show beta
βeta: Led this three years ago. A little more polished but manageable. You have sooo much choice of gear placements. Led it as one and abseiled off collecting gear as Mikes knee had played him up |
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archieharris2011 | 14 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Very polished. Good fun, little muddy at top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very polished. Good fun, little muddy at top. |
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Jakob Annerdal | 9 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: My first VS, and my 2nd trad climb in 3 years - didnt feel worried at all. The route feels very safe in that the gear is good. I did sling the little sapling, but mostly because I felt i should, its very unstable. Gear runs sort of low at the very top - climb carefully | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: My first VS, and my 2nd trad climb in 3 years - didnt feel worried at all. The route feels very safe in that the gear is good. I did sling the little sapling, but mostly because I felt i should, its very unstable. Gear runs sort of low at the very top - climb carefully |
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Marshyman | 12 Feb, 2022 |
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βeta: What a lovely climb. Quite damp and slippy. Imagine it’s a very different proposition in the summer. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: What a lovely climb. Quite damp and slippy. Imagine it’s a very different proposition in the summer. |
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Troglodytes | 6 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: A good climb with great wire pro, moving left on crux was testing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good climb with great wire pro, moving left on crux was testing. |
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Itsagoatlife | 10 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Don't forget rock shoes...barefoot crack climbing was an interesting experience. Still a very enjoyable climb though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don't forget rock shoes...barefoot crack climbing was an interesting experience. Still a very enjoyable climb though. |
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JimOakleyAdventures | 1 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lead climb to 2/3rds up past the crux, to set up a sling 3 point belay in practise for MPA award. Good route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lead climb to 2/3rds up past the crux, to set up a sling 3 point belay in practise for MPA award. Good route |
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Mr Slippery | 27 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Nice warmup to fairy cave. Gets busy.... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice warmup to fairy cave. Gets busy.... |
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Foz Forster | 9 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Good route. Not sure it’s worthy of the 3 stars though. Gears bomber and plentiful | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good route. Not sure it’s worthy of the 3 stars though. Gears bomber and plentiful |
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