UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.

Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.

Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:

  • Take all of your litter and any you find away with you to dispose of responsibly.
  • Responsible parking is essential to maintain access - see the 'parking and approach' section below for more information.
  • The only people with permission to be within the fenced area are cavers and climbers. If you find other people in the quarry please ask them to leave.
  • Parts of the quarry could be unstable and potentially dangerous for the unaware. In particular young or inexperienced climbers should be closely supervised at all times.
  • The quarry forms part of a larger SSSI and European SAC (Special Area of Conservation). Natural England are monitoring the rare flora and fauna within the quarry so avoid removing any vegetation without checking with the local Access Rep or Access Officer first.

Descents:

Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.

  • The best abseil descent (easier to pull through) from the Robs Crack area is from a pair of stakes with wire strops and maillon situated above Who Needs Hair Anyway i.e. next to the Hawthorn bush on the crag edge about 50m left (facing out) of Robs Crack.
  • A strop and maillon have been added to the stake above Halfway to Kansas/Lumbar Puncture, another above Balch's Slide and another above Senile Taff Corner to facilitate abseiling.
  • All routes in the Glacis area have lower offs in place.
  • The Alpine Ridge can be ascended/descended as a relatively easy but exposed scramble.
35m.

Rockfax Description
Pleasant climbing with an initially bold section. Climb with care direct to a shallow circular niche. Continue to just short of the corner and then pursue a line up right to meet Rob's Crack. Climb direct up the wall left of Rob's Crack to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start on the left side of the slab and climb boldly to a blast-shattered alcove. Climb up, veer rightwards as you near the corner, and traverse delicately right to join Rob's Crack where it bends right. Leave that route and climb direct to the top.

FA. M.Raine, M.Hammill 06/Apr/2002.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 2 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Keep it together and trust those feet. Classic FCQ!
βeta?
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βeta: Keep it together and trust those feet. Classic FCQ!
Gingerlings 23 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The grade is just for the start really, after that it eases off
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βeta: The grade is just for the start really, after that it eases off
Zhi Yuan 1 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Cracks at the top are full of mud and vegetation
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βeta: Cracks at the top are full of mud and vegetation
Labergorce 15 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, bold and 5b to the shothole but then pretty straightforward afterwards. Although not a great deal of gear. The top half is very vegetated reducing the gear to one piece after leaving Rob\'s Crack!
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βeta: Great route, bold and 5b to the shothole but then pretty straightforward afterwards. Although not a great deal of gear. The top half is very vegetated reducing the gear to one piece after leaving Rob's Crack!
NJaycock 18 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: While the start is bold a fall is pretty safe with a spotter.
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βeta: While the start is bold a fall is pretty safe with a spotter.
Hal Mungbean 14 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of mud in placements on upper half - nut key advised
βeta?
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βeta: Lots of mud in placements on upper half - nut key advised
Mr Slippery 4 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: As per other reviews, a bold start, slightly harder imo for the shorter reach climber. Past the start still a thinker but gear good.
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βeta: As per other reviews, a bold start, slightly harder imo for the shorter reach climber. Past the start still a thinker but gear good.
powelli 29 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very thin and smeary at the start, clean your shoes and climb carefully to the alcove.
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βeta: Very thin and smeary at the start, clean your shoes and climb carefully to the alcove.
Ashley King 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Once you get into robs crack all of the hard bits are done and there\'s loads of good protection.
Show beta
βeta: Once you get into robs crack all of the hard bits are done and there's loads of good protection.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Fairy Cave Quarry

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 88
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 84
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sullenberger (WW)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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