UKC

35m. Start on the left side of the slab and climb boldly to a blast-shattered alcove. Climb up, veer rightwards as you near the corner, and traverse delicately right to join Rob's Crack where it bends right. Leave that route and climb direct to the top.

FA. M.Raine, M.Hammill 06/Apr/2002.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gingerlings 23 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The grade is just for the start really, after that it eases off
Show beta
βeta: The grade is just for the start really, after that it eases off
Zhi Yuan 1 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Cracks at the top are full of mud and vegetation
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cracks at the top are full of mud and vegetation
Labergorce 15 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, bold and 5b to the shothole but then pretty straightforward afterwards. Although not a great deal of gear. The top half is very vegetated reducing the gear to one piece after leaving Rob\'s Crack!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, bold and 5b to the shothole but then pretty straightforward afterwards. Although not a great deal of gear. The top half is very vegetated reducing the gear to one piece after leaving Rob's Crack!
NJaycock 18 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: While the start is bold a fall is pretty safe with a spotter.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: While the start is bold a fall is pretty safe with a spotter.
Hal Mungbean 14 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of mud in placements on upper half - nut key advised
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of mud in placements on upper half - nut key advised
Mr Slippery 4 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: As per other reviews, a bold start, slightly harder imo for the shorter reach climber. Past the start still a thinker but gear good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As per other reviews, a bold start, slightly harder imo for the shorter reach climber. Past the start still a thinker but gear good.
powelli 29 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very thin and smeary at the start, clean your shoes and climb carefully to the alcove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very thin and smeary at the start, clean your shoes and climb carefully to the alcove.
Ashley King 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Once you get into robs crack all of the hard bits are done and there\'s loads of good protection.
Show beta
βeta: Once you get into robs crack all of the hard bits are done and there's loads of good protection.

Logged Ascents

547 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Fairy Cave Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 46 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 79
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sullenberger (WW)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

Loading Notifications...