UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
Good slab climbing but run-out. Begin just right of the runnels of Minute Waltz. Move up into a shallow niche and then progress up the slab above, slightly rightwards, to a ledge. From its left end make some committing moves to a runnel up on the left and finish up it and the grassy slab above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Quite bold and insecure in places: high in the grade. Start at the lowest point of the right-hand slab of the glacis. Climb straight up past the blast pocket and trend slightly right up the slab above (thin) to reach a ledge and sapling. From the left end of the ledge, make bold moves up and left to gain a shallow runnel, which is followed to the top of the slab. Go up grassy ledges to a lower-off.

FA. R.A.Broomhead, J.Stanbury 01/Jun/2002.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Fairy Cave Quarry VS-E1 Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Woollard 28 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Tree has gone, top now feels really bold!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tree has gone, top now feels really bold!
Labergorce 2 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Not overly bold at top got micro and #1 in above the ledge. thought crux was getting to the ledge as harder and pretty run out there
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not overly bold at top got micro and #1 in above the ledge. thought crux was getting to the ledge as harder and pretty run out there
beardy mike 1 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The small sapling on the ledge is now gone. Better holds have been unearthed from beneath the grass to aid now the trees gone and a good nut slot is easy to find and place at the left extremity of the ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The small sapling on the ledge is now gone. Better holds have been unearthed from beneath the grass to aid now the trees gone and a good nut slot is easy to find and place at the left extremity of the ledge.
Steve Woollard 22 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Tree looking pretty dead
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tree looking pretty dead
iantoday 25 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Good small gear all the way up to the tree on the ledge, bold after that
Show beta
βeta: Good small gear all the way up to the tree on the ledge, bold after that

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sullenberger (WW)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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