UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.

Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.

Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:

  • Take all of your litter and any you find away with you to dispose of responsibly.
  • Responsible parking is essential to maintain access - see the 'parking and approach' section below for more information.
  • The only people with permission to be within the fenced area are cavers and climbers. If you find other people in the quarry please ask them to leave.
  • Parts of the quarry could be unstable and potentially dangerous for the unaware. In particular young or inexperienced climbers should be closely supervised at all times.
  • The quarry forms part of a larger SSSI and European SAC (Special Area of Conservation). Natural England are monitoring the rare flora and fauna within the quarry so avoid removing any vegetation without checking with the local Access Rep or Access Officer first.

Descents:

Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.

  • The best abseil descent (easier to pull through) from the Robs Crack area is from a pair of stakes with wire strops and maillon situated above Who Needs Hair Anyway i.e. next to the Hawthorn bush on the crag edge about 50m left (facing out) of Robs Crack.
  • A strop and maillon have been added to the stake above Halfway to Kansas/Lumbar Puncture, another above Balch's Slide and another above Senile Taff Corner to facilitate abseiling.
  • All routes in the Glacis area have lower offs in place.
  • The Alpine Ridge can be ascended/descended as a relatively easy but exposed scramble.
28m. Formerly HVS, but the route shed a block from just above the overlap; the crux move is now much harder. To the left of Standing on the Shoulders of Moles is a large arched overlap. Climb the slab, crossing a left-rising diagonal crack (which, disappointingly, spits out nuts) to the overlap. With a runner on the sapling on the left, step up and place small wires above the overlap; then pull over with difficulty. Easy climbing leads to the narrow terrace. Belay on saplings a further 8m up the easy but very loose ground behind the narrow terrace, or continue to the top.

FA. J.Moyle, P.Robertson 11/Jun/2011.

Feedback

User Date Notes
The Pylon King 17 Feb Show βeta
βeta: It hasnt fallen down.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It hasnt fallen down.
Dunthemall 17 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Fallen Down
Show beta
βeta: Fallen Down
norris.dan 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The quality of the rock isn't great here. A crimp broke off on the leftwards crack on the initial slab and what felt like a key hold broke off the overlap and I fell. It's still doable and re-did ground up. BETA -- Not sure if this now affects the grade but it's now a side pull instead of a jug. The top of the overlap now doesn't seem to take any nuts either like the guidebook suggests (offset or normal). So double cams (purple and black totem) at the base of the overlap seemed to only do it. The quality of the rock at the top after the second overlap is incredibly unstable and we had to clear a number of loose rocks to make it safe for the second. Be careful out there guys.
Show beta
βeta: The quality of the rock isn't great here. A crimp broke off on the leftwards crack on the initial slab and what felt like a key hold broke off the overlap and I fell. It's still doable and re-did ground up. BETA -- Not sure if this now affects the grade but it's now a side pull instead of a jug. The top of the overlap now doesn't seem to take any nuts either like the guidebook suggests (offset or normal). So double cams (purple and black totem) at the base of the overlap seemed to only do it. The quality of the rock at the top after the second overlap is incredibly unstable and we had to clear a number of loose rocks to make it safe for the second. Be careful out there guys.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Fairy Cave Quarry

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 5
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Coronation Street (WW)

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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