UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.

Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.

Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:

  • Take all of your litter and any you find away with you to dispose of responsibly.
  • Responsible parking is essential to maintain access - see the 'parking and approach' section below for more information.
  • The only people with permission to be within the fenced area are cavers and climbers. If you find other people in the quarry please ask them to leave.
  • Parts of the quarry could be unstable and potentially dangerous for the unaware. In particular young or inexperienced climbers should be closely supervised at all times.
  • The quarry forms part of a larger SSSI and European SAC (Special Area of Conservation). Natural England are monitoring the rare flora and fauna within the quarry so avoid removing any vegetation without checking with the local Access Rep or Access Officer first.

Descents:

Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.

  • The best abseil descent (easier to pull through) from the Robs Crack area is from a pair of stakes with wire strops and maillon situated above Who Needs Hair Anyway i.e. next to the Hawthorn bush on the crag edge about 50m left (facing out) of Robs Crack.
  • A strop and maillon have been added to the stake above Halfway to Kansas/Lumbar Puncture, another above Balch's Slide and another above Senile Taff Corner to facilitate abseiling.
  • All routes in the Glacis area have lower offs in place.
  • The Alpine Ridge can be ascended/descended as a relatively easy but exposed scramble.
32m. The long, straight borehole with a crack in it. Spaced protection and some loose rock. Not a particularly safe route, but safer than some of the routes further to the right!

FA. H.Harris, O.Mullis 30/Sep/2002.

Feedback

User Date Notes
MireaLauria 16 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Very very crumbly, would not climb again. Super run out too
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βeta: Very very crumbly, would not climb again. Super run out too
Jon Dixon 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Won’t bother with this one again. Other descriptions say it all, but I only read them after! Fairly easy to scramble up, but protection hard to come by higher up.
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βeta: Won’t bother with this one again. Other descriptions say it all, but I only read them after! Fairly easy to scramble up, but protection hard to come by higher up.
Fatclimber 15 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I have done this route multiple times, and I think it has degraded somehow. Couldn\'t find any meaningful gear after 1/3 height.
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βeta: I have done this route multiple times, and I think it has degraded somehow. Couldn't find any meaningful gear after 1/3 height.
George Lunn 17 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Possible ground fall from 20-25m.
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βeta: Possible ground fall from 20-25m.
Mr Slippery 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not a good confidence builder if you're getting into trad - but perhaps useful as an example of mountain climbing. Lots of loose rock and difficult to trust. Gear placement also not great (because of loose rock).
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βeta: Not a good confidence builder if you're getting into trad - but perhaps useful as an example of mountain climbing. Lots of loose rock and difficult to trust. Gear placement also not great (because of loose rock).

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