Altitude 180m a.s.l
Alan James on The Niche (E2) at Lower Falcon (from the Lake District Climbs Rockfax) © Mike Hutton
The Falcon Crags are the first of the major Borrowdale cliffs encountered when travelling along the lakeside road from Keswick. The climbing is steep and intimidating but in general exhilarating, highly rewarding and for the most part on good rock. The crag has two major buttresses divided by a steep gully. The brilliant Lower Falcon has both single and multi-pitch routes, the best in the VS to the mid-E grade range. Upper Falcon is topped by a sheer wall of rock with a classic hard line up its middle, although it is not the easiest of places to get to despite its proximity to the road. The crags have a beautiful outlook and have a big feel about them, offering a worthy alternative to the high crags if they are out of condition.
There are three possible parking areas. The main parking is at the start of the Watendlath road. There is limited parking in an old quarry on the left about 50m after turning off of the lakeside road. A useful alternative is at a lay-by on the lakeside road, but this also fills up very quickly. For Upper Falcon, the parking is at the Ashness Bridge National Trust carpark (fee).
Lower Falcon - From the main carpark take the faint path on the left up and over a stile. Follow the path steeply until it levels out below the right-hand side of the crag. A smaller path leads off through the undergrowth up to the base of the crag. The path meets the base of the crag at two large trees in a shallow bay - this is where the route Dedication Direct starts and is a good reference point for locating the other routes. From the lay-by on the lakeside road, take the footpath that starts at a gap in the wall and follow this until another path is reached. Go right and walk to meet the path at the far right-hand end of the crag (poorer paths head up earlier).
Upper Falcon - Park at the National Trust carpark at Ashness Bridge and follow the Walla Crag footpath (see crag approach for more details).
|Surely "Dry Grasp" should be "Dry Gasp"?
C Witter - 20/Dec/16
|Great crag. Some unlikely situations for the grades and a nice outlook. Seems a bit under-climbed and under-starred for how good the routes are.
AliBaxter - 17/Jun/15
|this crag is a bit loose!
joe king - 12/Jul/10