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Climbs 430
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces S

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CUMC silhouettes at sunset © grumpyoldjanner

Crag features

A beautiful and popular area, providing the greatest concentration of the best traditional routes on Gower and some of its most spectacular. It is possibly the best area for a first visit to Gower. The area lies between Fall Bay in the west and Mewslade Bay in the east. It contains a variety of gullies and buttresses, with climbing of all grades with both non-tidal and very tidal areas which are individually noted. 

Access Advice

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a  seasonal restriction "....  due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 31st July.

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT  that they are "informing you that I want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August 2020. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying. There are lots of examples where Swift populations have been lost from Welsh towns and villages in recent years.I only know of one other location where Swifts are breeding in natural features and that’s on coastal cliff face in Pembrokeshire".

 

Climbed on Sunday - routes at Lewes Castle East from 'The Bottle' to 'South West Diedre' had nesting birds
Paulos87 - 23/Apr/19
climbed here yesterday and found that there a coughs nesting in the route rib and crack!! best to avoid this for a while
dringocymru1988 - 29/May/15
Map tags in wrong places/order. Block Buttress is immediately west of Trident Gully, which is immediately west of Four Gullies, and Catacomb is immediately above Trident and the 4th (west-most) gully of Four Gullies.
jogwen - 30/Aug/11
this crag is covered by Yellow Wall, Eyeball Wall, Jackys Tor, Cathedral W. Please use that
chris wyatt - 19/Feb/11
Upper Jackys Tor is a fantastic crag, away from the crowds and fantastic mid grade routes, worth a couple of visits.
Ivan Bicknell - 30/Jun/09
Someone needs to take this crag off the database. Its covered under fall bay butress
chris wyatt - 12/Mar/07
Have to agree with comments on the looseness of Combination - says he, nursing a broken ankle!
gbuchanan - 05/Jul/06
Great climbing on this excellent crag, but I took a fall off of Combination (VS 4b)where there was a large amount of very big and very loose rock. Standing on top of the buttress near the base, my (sober) friend said the whole thing was shifting under my weight! I either went well off route, or someone needs to look at this route and judge how safe & solid the rock is.
nickle - 18/Jul/05
A great climbing experience if you geta chance do osiris it must be one of the best routes on the crag a treverse below the overhang to finish just passed. give it a bash if your there worth while
will.s - 11/Dec/03
we got a group to ab off fall bay buttress and they loved as you can see from above and i really enjoyed watching them do we got some great snaps which i will put on. well done all for doing it
will - 11/Dec/03
We abseiled down Fall bay butress last week, it was scary but i did it and it was only my second time out. It looked higher to me cos im tiny. There was birds flying underneath us. The surfers looked like dots your a whimp if you dont do it!
terri - 16/Oct/03
Best crag on the Gower at the VS - E2 grade, no tides!
phil leng - 08/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

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