Rockfax Description
(Moon Dance) Two indifferent pitches lead to a thrilling finish up the overhanging groove and exposed slab. Protection is good.
1) N6-, 30m. Jam up a short steep crack to a slab and then a grassy ledge. Continue up a V-groove to a small stance.
2) N5, 35m. Step left and climb a left-facing corner (some loose blocks) to reach easier climbing up columns to another small stance below the last pitch - a spectacular leaning groove.
3) N6+, 30m. Jam and bridge up the sustained overhanging groove until it ends. Follow finger-cracks first to the left, then back right, up the exposed slab to an easier finish out right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Two scrappy pitches lead to a steep groove and hard slab pitch in a great position. E3 5c
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ericandlucie | 5 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: Two "indifferent pitches"?? WTH? We climbed p1 and were so disgusted with it that we bailed off this awful route. Come on now, this is cragging, not a major mountain route or anything. A cragging route with even just one (and this one has two) disgusting pitch out of three does NOT qualify as *** (per Rockfax 2017), much less Top50 (per Rockfax 2008)!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Two "indifferent pitches"?? WTH? We climbed p1 and were so disgusted with it that we bailed off this awful route. Come on now, this is cragging, not a major mountain route or anything. A cragging route with even just one (and this one has two) disgusting pitch out of three does NOT qualify as *** (per Rockfax 2017), much less Top50 (per Rockfax 2008)!! |
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Grade: n6+ ***
(Helvetestinden)