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Climbs 70
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 90m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Johnstone on Morsel, The Tomb © TeddyC

Crag features

Bouldering and a DWS situated around the Findhorn Gorge and the River Divie. The rock type is composed of schist and gneiss.

The Stone Garden (Divie) is the best venue here.

All the stuff around the Divie can somehow be totally fine in the summer regarding the midges despite being sheltered. Must be something to do with the ecosystem down there.

Projects open to all.

Approach notes

Randolph's Leap

Parking at 57.526299, -3.669625 for online maps (google, bing ect)

Roof

Located at the confluence of the River Findhorn and the River Divie. From the Randolph's Leap roadside parking walk in the downhill direction towards the info sign infront of the wooden steps. Walk down the wooden steps then take the lower of the two paths and follow until reaching where the rivers meet. Walk past the encaged marker stone (high point of the Muckle Spate in 1829) and drop down onto the rock pavment. The face is hidden and will be on the otherside of the pavement.

Cauldron Walls

Upstream from the roof. From the roof head upstream on a good path, you will reach a large rapid with cable next to the path. The bouldering is hidden and above a rocky pavement directly next to the rapid. Walk further up stream to hit a path which takes up back downstream under the cliff. 

The Stone Garden (Divie) 

57.517030, -3.663922 for online maps (google, bing ect), marked as "cave" on OS map

Different parking. From the randolphs leap parking head back to Forres until you hit the main Grantown road then turn right to Grantown, follow this road for about a couple of minutes until a small tarmac road turns off right by some fields. Follow this road for about 100m where you'll see a private sign on 2 stone pillars on either side of the road. Park the car here discretely on the righthand junction. Now on foot carry along the road, walk for about 10mins then a field will open up on your left (this field will also have an island of forest in the middle for reference). Now still walking, keep looking down to your right and eventually you'll see the dried up gorge heading down the hill. This is it. You can see the boulders from the road so you'll know if it's the right one.

DWS Crag (Divie)

Park as for the stone garden, follow along the tarmac road until hitting some pylons, follow the pylons down the river via a grassy path. You'll meet a bridge, don't cross it and follow the river downstream. Eventually you will see some stairs, a viewing plaform and a bench on the otherside of the river where a short waterfall falls into a pool. The crag will be directly below you. Over to the right a rough steep trail will bring you down to the pool. The crag will be just up stream and out of view. A small easy traverse brings to crag into full view.

The viewing platform across the river gives a good view of the crag, reach this by swimming across or crossing the bridge higher up and following the trail down.

Corkscrew Rapid (Sluie's) 001517

Would be well hard to find so the crux will be getting there, will try my best though. Maybe a 30mins walk from the car. Different parking. Drive towards Forres from Randolphs leap, hit the juction with the grantown road then turn left towards Forres. Head along the road for a bit until you drive into the woods and you'll go round a sharpish righthand turn, then turn left onto a gravel track labeled Sluie's Walks (there will be a large lay-by on the opposite side of the road). It is possible to park here but will lengthen the walk by 10mins. Drive down the gravel track then you'll trend left and fields will appear on the right, then a large lefthand juction will show up. Park here discretely on the right side of the juction. For reference there will be a farm house up ahead if you went straight, but now on foot you'll be taking the track going left.

Now follow the 4x4 track for around a good 20mins going straight at any junctions. Eventually a track will cut off right heading towards the river (you'll know it's the right one because there will be a warning sign about steep cliffs 20m along the track). A small track will cut off left at a small wooden fence like thing just behind the warning sign, this path will follow the top of the gorge upstream. (for reference the main path will turn right and follow the gorge downstream, a good scenic return path although will take a little longer). Follow the lefthand path for about 100-200m and a faint trail on the right will appear heading down to the river. This path is very faint so pay attention, for reference there will be a small crag on the left just after taking the faint path. When the path hits the gorge bottom the prow will be directly towards the river at the bottom on the rapid. Shattered wall will be 50m upstream by a beach at the top of the rapid, and Hidden wall will be 10m further upstream over the rocky gorge side.

 

Good luck! See if you can stand all the chalky polish from all the traffic this place gets!

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