Freefall from the top of Freeborn Man © A. Huddart
The climbing available at Fisherman's Ledge is undoubtedly the most diverse at Swanage and ranges from some of the UK's best deep water solos to some massive roof climbs that are tackled by both traditional and sport climbs. There is also a good number of traditional routes that are not as popular but span the grades from HVS to E7 - some being amongst the most serious pitches on the coast.
Park at Durlston Country Park and take the tarmac road to join the coast path close to the lighthouse. Walk west along the coast path to the stile before the mile marker pylons. Cross the fence and continue along its seaward side for 250m, to where a slight ridge descends to the cliff-top ledges above Helix and The Conger. The various areas require different approaches from here.
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
|Descend Helix Direct not Helix! Same difficulty, one has rock at the bottom, the other water|
trouserburp - 28/Jun/11
|Funky Wall: nice little crag if you want to tick a handful of mid grade routes. some of the stuff is a bit eliminate though - it's surprising how small it is when you get there.|
ian bryant - 08/May/06
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