One of the 50 Classic Climbs of America. Stunning views, wonderful granite, and some very cool moves.
Approach: early and mid season - from Boston Basin take the snow couloir with 40-50 degree snow until you get onto the rock. In late season it may be unsafely melted out, and there are some 4-5th class gullies to the left as an alternative. However, they are often wet.
Route: Climb the ridge! Stay to the north (left) for the easiest moves, or go along the ridge itself. A couple of 5.6 moves occur just past a couple of fixed pitons, but the majority is easy 4th/5th. Moving together is recommended for speed.
Descent: Returning the way you came seems to be the preferred option. There are loads of tat anchors in the snow couloir for rappelling, but in mid July the snow melting away from the rock made it a pretty heinous descent (lots of moat-jumping!). Probably better than downclimbing the couloir though. Don't get your rope stuck in between snow and rock like we did...
One of each cam from BD 0.4-3 was plenty. Lots of slings and extenders. Didn't need any nuts.
Ice axe and crampons (can be stashed before the climb)
60m rope - a half-rope, doubled up for the simulclimbing, worked nicely.
Rock boots probably optional.
Can be done in one long day or two more relaxed ones, camping in the Basin (upper campsites best). Permits needed for camping.
Lloyd Anderson, Fred Beckey, Helmy Beckey, Jim Crooks, & Dave Lind June 1940.
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