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Climbs 125
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 240m a.s.l
Faces E

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Dan on Rubble Rouser (F6a+) at Foredale © Si Withington

Crag features

*Please note that due to a few climbers ignoring the access agreements at this crag it is currently closed to climbers. Please see the following UKC thread for more details http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=459666 *

Routes mainly in the range of 6a+ - 6c+ but there are also a selection of easier (4 - 5+) routes and a handful of 7a's too. Walls that face all aspects. A great outlook opposite penyghent, with little seepage after light rain. Routes in the region of 14 meters on average, but there are some fanatastic multi pitch routes at grades F6C and F7a.

Approach notes

Currently closed to climbers - see http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=459666

Park at the end of the quarry road in an obvious parking area, just before the sharp left-hand bend and the main farm.

Walk past the farm (no noise please) and up the lane. Midway between the sharp bend and the cottages, branch left (BMC Sign in place) up a grassy ridge to the right of the fence - follow this to the old slate quarry, traverse right to a small gate and enter the quarry.

No dogs, fires or camping allowed.

Access Banned

Access to Foredale quarry was always a sensitive issue with the local farmer and several of the owners of cottages passed on the previously agreed access route. The ever increasing popularity of the quarry brought these issues to a head in 2011 with the farmer withdrawing his permission for climbers to cross his land on the hillside above the farm and adjacent to Foredale Cottages. The farmer, at this time, was not the owner of the quarry itself but in 2014 he acquired full ownership of the land and continues to oppose climbing there.

Most of the upper perimeter of the quarry, except the land on the hillside directly below on the old access route, is mapped as Access Land under the CRoW Act..  Climbers entering the quarry over the access land from above since 2011 have generally reported no challenge. One group were approached by a young farmer (not, apparently, the one who imposed the ban) who told them that climbing was not permitted because of nesting birds and rare plants but after a polite discussion they were allowed to continue climbing.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no restrictions in place for nesting birds or protected flora.

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