UKC

Restricted Access

Access to the crag is sensitive given that is is very close to nearby houses - residents have in the past confronted climbers and asked them to leave.

Please make a particular effort to be quiet at this crag (especially avoiding shouting and bad language), take all litter home with you and don't use the crag or it's surrounds as a toilet. Keeping a low profile here is a good idea to help develop good realtionships with local residents and avoid access issues in the future.

Two useful links for further info are the online version of the Cicerone Leicestershire Climbs guidebook and the new Leicestershire Climbs website.

Deep in the cave sit start with left in the crack, right on a small gaston. Finish both hands on a large volume in the roof with legs still on the overhang. Opposite wall does not play a part.

Ticklists

Leicestershire Bouldering (7A-7B) , WUCC Must Do Local Climbs , Summer Bouldering in the UK - 7's

Feedback

User Date Notes
gowain 22 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Previously mentioned loose undercut is now solid.
βeta?
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βeta: Previously mentioned loose undercut is now solid.
Dima Zubanyc 14 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The left undercut is wobbly, might pop at some point, be weary and don't lose it if it falls off so it can be glued back.
βeta?
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βeta: The left undercut is wobbly, might pop at some point, be weary and don't lose it if it falls off so it can be glued back.
Orrin Coley 15 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: As was previously said, a lot of the difficulty is in the first move. Since someone built the landing up recently to be higher it's gotten easier. Especially with stacked pads...
βeta?
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βeta: As was previously said, a lot of the difficulty is in the first move. Since someone built the landing up recently to be higher it's gotten easier. Especially with stacked pads...
Sid Sherborne 4 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 7B if started from sitting on one pad. Take some grades off if you start off two (or more!).
βeta?
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βeta: 7B if started from sitting on one pad. Take some grades off if you start off two (or more!).
RobHearnden 7 Dec, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Unsure about 7bness
Show beta
βeta: Unsure about 7bness

Logged Ascents

196 users have logged this
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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dark Magic

Grade: f7B ***
(Forest Rock)

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