UKC

Restricted Access

Access to the crag is sensitive given that is is very close to nearby houses - residents have in the past confronted climbers and asked them to leave.

Please make a particular effort to be quiet at this crag (especially avoiding shouting and bad language), take all litter home with you and don't use the crag or it's surrounds as a toilet. Keeping a low profile here is a good idea to help develop good realtionships with local residents and avoid access issues in the future.

Two useful links for further info are the online version of the Cicerone Leicestershire Climbs guidebook and the new Leicestershire Climbs website.

10m. Climb the initial wall of Sorcerer the left end of the overlap to where it forms an inverted V. Do not move right to the good holds! Instead Make hard moves out from under this leftwards to a jug on the headwall. Finish direct.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dolph 9 Mar Show βeta
βeta: The original description of this climb says to climb up and into the inverted V after the Sorcerer start. Then make moves out left. To the good hold. There is a lot confusion with the grading. I think it’s very tempting to move right and make the move up to the Sourcey jug. If you go left away from the good undercuts and jug on that line it feels a lot harder than E3 and an independent line. The old Leicestershire Climbs site had this at E5 which is probably a lot nearer the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The original description of this climb says to climb up and into the inverted V after the Sorcerer start. Then make moves out left. To the good hold. There is a lot confusion with the grading. I think it’s very tempting to move right and make the move up to the Sourcey jug. If you go left away from the good undercuts and jug on that line it feels a lot harder than E3 and an independent line. The old Leicestershire Climbs site had this at E5 which is probably a lot nearer the grade.

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Modular

Grade: E3 6a ***
(The Brand)

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