Climbs 67
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Andy 'Sharpie' Sharp lapping Turkey Lurking on Spanish-esque Welsh limestone © LluniauOER

Crag features

A great little bolted crag, well worth a visit for climbers in the F6c-7a+ range. In addition, most lines are close enough to each other to allow plenty of link up variations at grades from about 7a-7c. Some of the best link-ups are named below, though pretty much anything that can be linked together has been done – there's no need to submit new named linkups.

The majority of the older bolts were replaced in May 2009, and since then any worn out bolts have been replaced as and when necessary, typically with glue-ins. Take care at the very top of the routes as there can be some loose rock, especially on the far right of the crag.

The main crag seeps quite badly in places after long periods of rain (especially Goose In Lucy). The cave tends to need several dry days to return to condition, but the routes at either end of the crag can usually be climbed even if it has rained the day before. Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove is climbable whether wet or dry.

Below the cave there are several smaller slabs and zawns with a collection of mainly lower grade trad routes.

Approach notes

Park in the National Trust car park at Southgate. Head west (i.e., rightwards when facing the sea) out of the car park along a private road with houses on your right. Just before you reach number 8 head left following a wide path through some bushes towards the headland, then scramble down the left hand side of the slope before heading back round to the right and into the cove. An alternative approach is possible from the right, but do not under any circumstances attempt to approach the crag by walking over the top as some guides suggest – this is likely to be fatal.

Left 4 quickdraws up Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove on Sunday to continue projecting the following days, only to have them stolen :( Such a shame.
kirstymcn - 21/May/19
Nest at foxhole literally a foot away from the belay rings on basil brush. They are crows, But the parents where upset that we where there. The other belays for the other routes around there are quite a distance away so aren't really affected. Also the belay rings are loose would of taken a spanner up but the crows where circling
dringocymru1988 - 10/May/16
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